Sunday, 14 January 2018

25 Exciting and Creative Photos of Street Art & Graffiti

Love it or hate it, you can’t deny that some street art takes talent and a gift for art. Personally, if done well, I love it – in this post I’m going to take a look at some great photos that people have captured of street art.  Thanks to the following Photographers who allowed us to share their Photos under a Creative Commons License.

Everybody wants to ride!

Everybody wants to ride! by eva101

Dome

Dome by funkandjazz

Mural

Mural by funkandjazz

Type

Type by delete08

The Mac, Reyes

The Mac, Reyes by funkandjazz

Graffiti @ Reesink (HDR)

Graffiti @ Reesink (HDR) by Harm Rhebergen

RICK ROSS

RICK ROSS by ALL CHROME

5 Pointz

5 Pointz by otherthings

The Best I Ever Had

The Best I Ever Had by Thomas Hawk

Tunnel of Light

Tunnel of Light by irene gr

Swarm

Swarm by Today is a good day

Child with toy hand grenade street art

Child with toy hand grenade street art by Max Eremine

New York Graffiti

New York Graffiti by Stuck in Customs

Unexpected meeting

Unexpected meeting by greekadman

YOLKS ON YOU

YOLKS ON YOU by ALL CHROME

Amazing Graffiti by Banksy

Amazing Graffiti by Banksy by cannonsnapper

RSN

RSN by funkandjazz

Hicup, Deko, Kady

Hicup, Deko, Kady by funkandjazz

Twist

Twist by sabeth718

Untitled

Untitled by Astragony

Swampy, Swornes

Swampy, Swornes by Rebirth Cycle

Innocente

Innocente by Funky64

Graffiti in abandoned hotel

Graffiti in abandoned hotel by Graffiti Land

Streets of Manila

Streets of Manila by wili_hybrid

Kittenzilla

Kittenzilla by Justin.Beck

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Saturday, 13 January 2018

Tips for Photographing Landscapes

A few basic rules

When I first started in photography and started taking pictures of landscapes (and just about everything else), I thought ‘why can’t I get my photos to look like the ones in the magazines’? I thought my photos looked good, but, when I compared them to other photos I realized that they lacked something.

Suitable lens

Well, apart from the fact they were taken by professionals in exotic locations, with equipment I could only dream of owning, they were also taken with a lens that was suitable for that purpose ( more often a wide angle lens) and they were taken by someone who new about the rules and general guides you should use when photographing landscapes. So now, after putting into practice the things I’d learned over the years; here’s a general guide to photographing landscapes.

Dawn and dusk

So what’s a good time of day to shoot a nice landscape?, the best times, so the professionals will tell you , is around dawn and dusk; when the light is softer and warmer; at these times of the day, you may also have the advantage of getting a sunrise or sunset into the picture.

A wide angle lens with a small aperture gives a good depth of field. (© Anthony Webber)

Depth of field

You will need to set your camera to create a good depth of field so that you get everything in the scene in sharp focus by using a high f/stop number (such as f/18-f/22).

As you’ll be using a high f/stop; the size of the aperture will be smaller and therefore, will be letting in less light, which means you’ll need a slower shutter speed, this could make the images blurry so, to avoid this you will need to use a tripod; you don’t need to pay a lot of money for a tripod; as long as it supports your camera and lens comfortably.

Cable release

If you really want to get a sharp landscape image, then use a cable release ( if your camera supports one); just by pressing the shutter button can cause minute vibrations (more so with a telephoto lens) that can cause a blurry image.

Some compacts and bridge cameras allow you to attach a cable release directly to the shutter button, while the remote cable release is used more and more by DSLR users.

Rule of thirds

One of the first things a photographer learns is the ‘rule of thirds’; it’s a guide that is used to help with composition for a balanced photograph.It works like this: when looking through your viewfinder (or LCD screen) draw four imaginary lines; two horizontally, one a third from the bottom and one third from the top, and then another two vertically one third from the left and then one third from the right; where they cross is where you would put your point(s) of interest.

Of course, this is more of a guide than a rule, but it can help someone who’s new to photography to get a more balanced picture.

Horizon

Another tip that you’ll hear a lot and that is keep your horizon straight. Although it may seem obvious, it’s amazing how many people (more so when they’re new to photography) overlook this most basic tip and spoil an otherwise good photograph when it could be easily rectified with a little more thought. Although the most basic image editing software can sort the problem; it’s good practice to get it right when you’re taking the picture.

The storm clouds are the focal point; the swans add foreground interest. (© Anthony Webber)

Foreground interest

Try putting something in the foreground of your  picture; something that will lead the eye into the photograph to create more interest, also, have a focal point, what made you want to shoot the scene in the first place? what caught your eye?. It’s much more pleasing to the viewer of your photographs when there’s a focal point.

 

Awesome shots of  landscapes, selected from Flickr’s creative commons.

Image by Zoutedrop

Image by Hakan Dahlstrom

Landscape in infrared by Irargerich

Another image by Zoutedrop

Snowy landscape by bettybraun

Sandstone slot canyan, AZ.  Awesome! by SteveD

Another great image by SteveD

Image by US Fish and wildlife service, Midwest region.

Aurora Borealis. Brilliant!. Image by Beverly and pack

Lone tree-Mongolian landscape by tiarescott

Grand Canyon by Grand Canyon NPS

Castle Rocks Spring by The Knowles Gallery

Cathedral Peak, Yosemite National Park by SteveD

‘Something for the Weekend’ by Tony.Wood

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Friday, 12 January 2018

Beginners Guide to the Rule of Thirds

You may have heard of the Rule of Thirds before, it is usually one of the first things that is taught in Photography classes and it is used to help in the composition of your photographs.

What is the Rule of Thirds ?

Quite simply, you divide an image into 3 parts horizontally and vertically like so :

As you are taking your photo, imagine the viewfinder has those lines ( some cameras do have this feature built-in ). You can use where the lines intersect to place points of interest in the photo, such as someone’s head or a feature in the environment :

You can also use the lines themselves to align a feature in the image :

The theory behind using the Rule of Thirds is that it helps to make the picture more balanced – you dont have one object off in a corner and then lots of space around it for example. Studies have been done which show the a person’s eyes are naturally drawn to one of the intersection points when looking at images, rather than the center of it.

Rule of Thirds Examples

Let’s take a look at some good examples of photos which use the Rule of Thirds …

Two equestrian riders

Two equestrian riders by mikebaird

drops of spring

drops of spring by Steve took it

In the Shadow of a Flower

In the Shadow of a Flower by Hamed Saber

Rule of thirds

Rule of thirds by fd

Stele Pavilion

Stele Pavilion by ralphrepo

The post Beginners Guide to the Rule of Thirds appeared first on Photographic Blog.



source http://photographicblog.com/beginners-guide-to-the-rule-of-thirds/

Thursday, 11 January 2018

Beginners Guide to Shooting in RAW

Better Photographs

If you’re someone who wants to get sharper, more detailed photographs that contains more accurate colours, with a greater dynamic range (the ratio between the lightest and darkest areas of an image), then you should consider shooting in raw.

What is RAW?

A raw file can be explained as being similar to the old film camera’s processed negative; it contains the complete lossless data from the cameras sensor, and is sometimes referred to as the ‘unprocessed’ image that your camera produces before it’s been modified with imaging software, although the digital image does go through a certain amount of processing before it is saved to a raw file.

Exif Data

Raw files also contains the ‘exif’ data; which has information such as, camera model, shutter speed, aperture and, date and time when the photograph was taken; which is all very handy information, particularly when you want to know the details of why a photograph worked so well when another one didn’t; you just check your exif data, the details are all there!

What Kind of Imaging Software?

When you shoot in RAW you’re using your computers processing power to convert your images, so,you will need some kind of imaging software to convert your RAW files; you could use the software that came with your camera, or you could  try the reasonably priced Photoshop Elements for converting and processing and editing your raw files (and other formats such as jpeg and tiff) or the more comprehensive (and more expensive) Photoshop CS5.

Editing your RAW files

You will find it quite satisfying when you first start processing and editing your raw files, and with time and practice, you’ll find that you can do a better job than your camera’s own processer; you’ll be going back to your old photos which you converted from raw files, as I did, and be able to improve upon them because of the new skills you’ve learned, after all, as I mentioned earlier, a raw file is simply the equivalent of a film cameras negative. You can also get creative with the colour settings, contrast, white balance and sharpening and a host of other settings.

Downside

Of course, there is a downside to shooting in raw; the files are much bigger (around 20mb),there is no standard raw format; every camera manufacturer has their own format, raw takes longer for the camera to write, which decreases the FPS (frames per second) and most software has to be updated to support the latest cameras.

Rewarding

If you prefer photographing in the jpeg format without the hassle of post processing and editing then raw is not for you, but if you want to see more detailed images, and have the versatility and creative control of post editing then photographing in raw can be very rewarding; particularly when you see the end result.

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source http://photographicblog.com/beginners-guide-to-shooting-in-raw/

Wednesday, 10 January 2018

Beginners Guide to Depth of Field

Depth of field

Depth of field (DOF) can be a little baffling if you’re new to photography, but it’s easy once you understand the basic principles. Wikipedia defines depth of field as ”the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that are perceptibly sharp in an image” so, lets keep it simple.

Three factors

There are three factors that will determine depth of field:

  • The aperture of the lens.
  • The focal length of your lens.
  • Distance from your subject.

F/stops

F/stops are used to measure the aperture of a lens; the bigger the number (eg F/18, F/22 )  the smaller the aperture, which then increases the depth of field ( more of the image in focus),so, if you want to take a picture of lets say, a landscape, where you want everything near and far in focus, use a  high F/stop setting, along with a shorter focal length lens.

 

Image by macrophile

Smaller Aperture

The only downside to this is that a smaller aperture means that less light is entering the cameras sensor, therefore a slower shutter speed is needed, particularly if the light is poor, and this could cause blurry images from camera shake.If the shutter speed falls below 1/60th second (which is about the slowest speed a person can handhold a camera without camera shake) then you’ll certainly need a tripod to keep your images sharp.

 

 

Image by Schlusselbein2007

© A Webber

Bigger Aperture

If you want to get a shot where your subject is isolated; where everything before and after your subject is out of focus, then a wider aperture is needed, ( and a longer focal length lens). The image above of Teasel plants, was taken with a Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L usm at F/4. I was shooting fully zoomed in at 200mm, so any tiny movement of the camera would be exaggerated, in order to keep the subject sharp and the background nicely out of focus, I used a tripod.

This image was taken with a Canon EF-S 17-85 F/4.5-5.6 is usm lens at F/18, the shorter focal length and the small aperture keeps everything in focus. © Anthony Webber

Short Focal Length

Another factor that will determine DOF  is the focal length of the lens. A wide angle lens, for example, has a greater depth of field (more in focus); and is considered to be ‘wide angle’ when the focal length is less than 35mm, this, combined with a high F/stop (small aperture) will keep everything, near and far, in sharp focus.

Long Focal Length

A  telephoto lens, has less DOF, moreso as the focal length gets longer. So,to isolate your subject with a nice blurry foreground and background; use a telephoto lens combined with a low F/stop (small aperture). When I use the term  ‘telephoto’ lens, then I’m referring to a lens that has a longer focal length than 70mm.

Image by Madmack66

Bokeh

When you have a photograph where the background and fore ground appears blurry and out of focus; the blurry and out of focus area is called the ‘bokeh’. You may have heard photographers use the term of a particular lens as having ‘nice creamy bokeh’; it can be flattering in portrait shots where it lets the subject stand out, perhaps from a cluttered background such as a crowd of people.

Zoom Lens

Of course, you can shoot from wide angle to telephoto with different depths of field all on one lens: a zoom lens; with todays zoom’s offering a wide range of focal lengths and apertures you can get quite creative (which is why zoom lenses are so popular).

The depth of field increases as the aperture widens from F/2.8 (left) F/11 (centre) F/22 (right), all taken at 70mm on a 70-200 zoom lens

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source http://photographicblog.com/beginners-guide-to-depth-of-field/